Pottato Fruit

Here’s something I haven’t seen before in my, uh, six years of
growing potatoes: green, tomato-like, walnut-sized potato fruit. Bob
hadn’t seen ‘em either, in 40 plus years of farming. I hit the web for
education. These are genuine fruit, but not that common. Usually,
potato flowers just drop off. When fruit do form, they’re more likely
found on certain varieties, like Yukon Gold. Here, there were fruit on
just about every Chieftain plant, here and there on the Kennebec, and
none that I noticed on the Yukon Gold… Each fruit contains 300-500
seeds that don’t come true: planting them doesn’t result in the same
potatoes as the parent plant, there’s lots of genetic variability.
Potato breeders plant out thousands of seeds, check out the results,
then replant the most promising for 10 years or so to get stable new
varieties—apparently, this is the way new potatoes are bred. And, the
fruit are poisonous, rich in solanine, not for eating. Interesting!
Since they suddenly appeared this year on two varieties, I’d guess it
was about the weather!

Fall Crops

Filed under Planning

Not much to look at, yet, but the last plantings of 50-day-plus fall
crops are doing fine. Here, carrots and, protected from flea beetles by
floating row cover, one of two sections of brassicas, including
broccoli, cauliflower and kale. There’s a bit of timing risk here,
depending on the weather, if growing goes slow, they might not make it
to maturity in time for market. But the sun’s been shining for a couple
of days now, and the long range forecast is for more of the same. If
all goes well, these will be ready for harvest through October!

And the summer-seeded spinach couldn’t be doing better. There are
two plantings, the first on July 22, and the second (left of the photo)
a couple of weeks later. Here, Lynn hoes the first set: in this
summer’s wet, cooler, cloudier conditions, germination was absolutely
solid, as good as or better than regular spring seedings. Fall spinach
has never been this good, by far. Excellent!

The Joys of Growing Veggies during the Autumn Season

The Vegetable Garden

Fall really can be the ultimate season for enjoying the garden and producing loads of.

Fewer insect pests, decreased weed growth, pleasant temperatures, and a
reduced need for irrigation create ideal conditions for both the garden
and the gardener!

Vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels Sprouts will
only reach their full potential when raised as a fall crop in many
growing regions. And others such as kale, collards, and parsnips will
become sweeter and have their flavors enhanced following exposure to
the seasoning effects of frost and cold weather.

It may prove to be a difficult choice for some gardeners to make,
but I’ll gladly sacrifice a few weeks of declining production from
selected summer crops in order to cultivate a fall garden that will be
productive throughout autumn and right into the winter months.

Signs Summer Is Winding Down

Even though we will still get
many days with high temperatures in the 90’s, you can tell that summer
is on the wan. Next Monday is the end of meteorological summer, and,
even here where warm weather continues into November, there are signs
that summertime is just about over.

The hydrangeas’ flowers are
all turning from green to a rosy pink with flecks of brown. A sure
sign that that they won’t last much longer. If picked now and dried
they make for great fall arrangements.

Even in
decline, the hydrangea’s flowers are still striking. Before you know
it, the leaves will start to turn brown and drop off.

Another
sign is the blooming of the Sweet Autumn Clematis. Its bloom period is
at its peak right now. The star-shaped flowers cover the vine, and the
bees are busy visiting each one.

The
Beautyberry’s fruit have all turned that gorgeous magenta which shows
the berries have fully matured - another sign that autumn is knocking
on the door.

The little
coleus that was planted in the spring, is now a large mass of colorful
leaves. It is hard to believe that such a small plant has grown so big
by the end of summer.

And
finally, one last sign that summer is coming to an end. The Texas Star
is blooming prolifically, something it does only as summer comes to a
close.

So, these
are the signs that summer is winding down. Now, I am on the lookout
for the first of the fall flowers to show up as the wheel of time
slowly turns.

Late Summer Garden

By the end of summer the
garden has grown into the lush setting I envisioned in the late
winter. This is the first year that plants are large enough to have
filled in just about all areas of the garden. The back corner is an
example of this. You can’t even see the neighbor’s yard next door.

To the right of that area, it is just as thick.

The beds
surrounding the patio echo the same verdant growth. I can hardly
believe that just a few years ago every thing seemed so small with big
spaces between plants, and now look at it.

I just hope
that TS Gustav doesn’t turn into a big hurricane and hit us, ruining
the garden and much worse. I really am worried about this storm. Even
though it is days away, the authorities are already talking about a
mandatory evacuation. I would hate to have to go through a Katriana
all over again. Though it is too early to tell where it is going, I am
trying not to worry and am hoping it just fizzles out down in the
Caribbean. Please, keep good thoughts for the Gulf Coast.

Growing Jade Plants

Crassula ovata or Jade plants are shrubby succulent plants that make excellent choices for dry gardens and houseplants. Xeriscaping with drought tolerant cactus and succulent plants has become popular in dry areas or places where water conservation is a concern. Jades have thick, deep green leaves sometimes tinged with red on the edges. The leaf shape, like the name ovata implies, are oval from 1 - 2 inches long. Crassula ovata develop thick, fat trunks that have an aged look and will eventually grow up to 8 feet tall. In late winter jade plants get 3 inch clusters of light pink to pale salmon flowers with five petals. These perennial plants are drought tolerant and only need water once a month or so.

Indoors, jade plants make good houseplants. They prefer bright, indirect light and can take a few hours of direct sunlight but they are also adapted to low light. In a pot, Jade stay small and can even be used for bonsai. Crassula ovata is sometimes confused with Crassula argentia, which has a similar growth habit, but has silvery grey leaves. Crassula are usually not bothered by insects or disease. The biggest problem crassulas face may come from over watering. This will result in a soggy brown, rotting trunk.

In the garden, jade plants will grow in shade to full sun. In hottest desert areas, crassula do better when they don’t have an entire day of full sun. Crassula ovata are hardy to 41 degrees (5 degrees centigrade). A light frost will show up at brown dots on leaves. Overhead protection is usually enough to protect succulents during a light frost. Heavy frost, or a deep freeze will turn leaves brown and shriveled. Frozen leaves will fall off, or you can brush them off with your hands. If the plant branch or trunk is not damaged, new sprouts will form in a few weeks.

Green jade plants are able to live off rainfall alone in many areas. In my southern California garden, crassula are happily growing in both full sun and shade, in heavy alkaline, clay soil. You can see photos of flowering jade plants at http://www.theGardenPages.com

To root cuttings like jade plant or gollum jade, start with a 5 or 6 inch cutting. Bury about half of the stalk in soil. This will give you deep roots and helps the plant withstand drought better. Keep the soil moist (like a squeezed sponge). After a month, cut back to monthly watering. The leaves will probably shrivel a bit as the plant forms roots: it is living off the stored energy in its leaves. This is normal. You may also lose a few leaves, which is also normal. The plant will start growing again and may even flower in a year.

Garden Master Plan: An Asset for Garden Designing and Improvements

A master-plan is the ‘must have asset’ for a gardener. If you are a beginner then it is the first lesson for you and if you have been gardening for quite some time now then a master-plan would certainly help you in designing and re-designing your garden whenever you need. Having a master-plan would save you a lot of adjustments which is an extremely time consume process. It will also save you from the embarrassments like plant failures and other related disappointments.

As a gardener you probably have a fair experience of dissatisfactions you might have faced many times. So many tentative might have never resulted in the way you expected. It is primarily because of the piecemeal attitude. A holistic conceptualization of garden planning and improvements can only be achieved with a master-plan in hands.