Gardening

Pottato Fruit

2008-09-04T01:36:00.001-07:00

Here’s something I haven’t seen before in my, uh, six years of
growing potatoes: green, tomato-like, walnut-sized potato fruit. Bob
hadn’t seen ‘em either, in 40 plus years of farming. I hit the web for
education. These are genuine fruit, but not that common. Usually,
potato flowers just drop off. When fruit do form, they’re more likely
found on certain varieties, like Yukon Gold. Here, there were fruit on
just about every Chieftain plant, here and there on the Kennebec, and
none that I noticed on the Yukon Gold… Each fruit contains 300-500
seeds that don’t come true: planting them doesn’t result in the same
potatoes as the parent plant, there’s lots of genetic variability.
Potato breeders plant out thousands of seeds, check out the results,
then replant the most promising for 10 years or so to get stable new
varieties—apparently, this is the way new potatoes are bred. And, the
fruit are poisonous, rich in solanine, not for eating. Interesting!
Since they suddenly appeared this year on two varieties, I’d guess it
was about the weather!

Fall Crops

2008-09-04T01:33:00.001-07:00

Filed under Planning

Not much to look at, yet, but the last plantings of 50-day-plus fall
crops are doing fine. Here, carrots and, protected from flea beetles by
floating row cover, one of two sections of brassicas, including
broccoli, cauliflower and kale. There’s a bit of timing risk here,
depending on the weather, if growing goes slow, they might not make it
to maturity in time for market. But the sun’s been shining for a couple
of days now, and the long range forecast is for more of the same. If
all goes well, these will be ready for harvest through October!

And the summer-seeded spinach couldn’t be doing better. There are
two plantings, the first on July 22, and the second (left of the photo)
a couple of weeks later. Here, Lynn hoes the first set: in this
summer’s wet, cooler, cloudier conditions, germination was absolutely
solid, as good as or better than regular spring seedings. Fall spinach
has never been this good, by far. Excellent!

The Joys of Growing Veggies during the Autumn Season

2008-09-04T01:30:00.001-07:00

The Vegetable Garden

Fall really can be the ultimate season for enjoying the garden and producing loads of.

Fewer insect pests, decreased weed growth, pleasant temperatures, and a
reduced need for irrigation create ideal conditions for both the garden
and the gardener!

Vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels Sprouts will
only reach their full potential when raised as a fall crop in many
growing regions. And others such as kale, collards, and parsnips will
become sweeter and have their flavors enhanced following exposure to
the seasoning effects of frost and cold weather.

It may prove to be a difficult choice for some gardeners to make,
but I’ll gladly sacrifice a few weeks of declining production from
selected summer crops in order to cultivate a fall garden that will be
productive throughout autumn and right into the winter months.

Signs Summer Is Winding Down

2008-09-04T01:27:00.001-07:00

Even though we will still get
many days with high temperatures in the 90’s, you can tell that summer
is on the wan. Next Monday is the end of meteorological summer, and,
even here where warm weather continues into November, there are signs
that summertime is just about over.

The hydrangeas’ flowers are
all turning from green to a rosy pink with flecks of brown. A sure
sign that that they won’t last much longer. If picked now and dried
they make for great fall arrangements.

Even in
decline, the hydrangea’s flowers are still striking. Before you know
it, the leaves will start to turn brown and drop off.

Another
sign is the blooming of the Sweet Autumn Clematis. Its bloom period is
at its peak right now. The star-shaped flowers cover the vine, and the
bees are busy visiting each one.

The
Beautyberry’s fruit have all turned that gorgeous magenta which shows
the berries have fully matured - another sign that autumn is knocking
on the door.

The little
coleus that was planted in the spring, is now a large mass of colorful
leaves. It is hard to believe that such a small plant has grown so big
by the end of summer.

And
finally, one last sign that summer is coming to an end. The Texas Star
is blooming prolifically, something it does only as summer comes to a
close.

So, these
are the signs that summer is winding down. Now, I am on the lookout
for the first of the fall flowers to show up as the wheel of time
slowly turns.

Late Summer Garden

2008-09-04T01:14:00.003-07:00

By the end of summer the
garden has grown into the lush setting I envisioned in the late
winter. This is the first year that plants are large enough to have
filled in just about all areas of the garden. The back corner is an
example of this. You can’t even see the neighbor’s yard next door.

To the right of that area, it is just as thick.

The beds
surrounding the patio echo the same verdant growth. I can hardly
believe that just a few years ago every thing seemed so small with big
spaces between plants, and now look at it.

I just hope
that TS Gustav doesn’t turn into a big hurricane and hit us, ruining
the garden and much worse. I really am worried about this storm. Even
though it is days away, the authorities are already talking about a
mandatory evacuation. I would hate to have to go through a Katriana
all over again. Though it is too early to tell where it is going, I am
trying not to worry and am hoping it just fizzles out down in the
Caribbean. Please, keep good thoughts for the Gulf Coast.

Growing Jade Plants

2008-09-04T01:10:00.001-07:00

Crassula ovata or Jade plants are shrubby succulent plants that make excellent choices for dry gardens and houseplants. Xeriscaping with drought tolerant cactus and succulent plants has become popular in dry areas or places where water conservation is a concern. Jades have thick, deep green leaves sometimes tinged with red on the edges. The leaf shape, like the name ovata implies, are oval from 1 - 2 inches long. Crassula ovata develop thick, fat trunks that have an aged look and will eventually grow up to 8 feet tall. In late winter jade plants get 3 inch clusters of light pink to pale salmon flowers with five petals. These perennial plants are drought tolerant and only need water once a month or so.

Indoors, jade plants make good houseplants. They prefer bright, indirect light and can take a few hours of direct sunlight but they are also adapted to low light. In a pot, Jade stay small and can even be used for bonsai. Crassula ovata is sometimes confused with Crassula argentia, which has a similar growth habit, but has silvery grey leaves. Crassula are usually not bothered by insects or disease. The biggest problem crassulas face may come from over watering. This will result in a soggy brown, rotting trunk.

In the garden, jade plants will grow in shade to full sun. In hottest desert areas, crassula do better when they don’t have an entire day of full sun. Crassula ovata are hardy to 41 degrees (5 degrees centigrade). A light frost will show up at brown dots on leaves. Overhead protection is usually enough to protect succulents during a light frost. Heavy frost, or a deep freeze will turn leaves brown and shriveled. Frozen leaves will fall off, or you can brush them off with your hands. If the plant branch or trunk is not damaged, new sprouts will form in a few weeks.

Green jade plants are able to live off rainfall alone in many areas. In my southern California garden, crassula are happily growing in both full sun and shade, in heavy alkaline, clay soil. You can see photos of flowering jade plants at http://www.theGardenPages.com

To root cuttings like jade plant or gollum jade, start with a 5 or 6 inch cutting. Bury about half of the stalk in soil. This will give you deep roots and helps the plant withstand drought better. Keep the soil moist (like a squeezed sponge). After a month, cut back to monthly watering. The leaves will probably shrivel a bit as the plant forms roots: it is living off the stored energy in its leaves. This is normal. You may also lose a few leaves, which is also normal. The plant will start growing again and may even flower in a year.

Garden Master Plan: An Asset for Garden Designing and Improvements

2008-09-03T22:15:00.001-07:00

A master-plan is the ‘must have asset’ for a gardener. If you are a beginner then it is the first lesson for you and if you have been gardening for quite some time now then a master-plan would certainly help you in designing and re-designing your garden whenever you need. Having a master-plan would save you a lot of adjustments which is an extremely time consume process. It will also save you from the embarrassments like plant failures and other related disappointments.

As a gardener you probably have a fair experience of dissatisfactions you might have faced many times. So many tentative might have never resulted in the way you expected. It is primarily because of the piecemeal attitude. A holistic conceptualization of garden planning and improvements can only be achieved with a master-plan in hands.

Fruit Flies: Home Gardeners Must Be Vigilant

2008-09-03T22:13:00.001-07:00

Home gardeners around the world are compelled to face the devastating effects of “Fruit Flies“ .It is one of the most dangerous pests. Sporadic outbreak incidences have been reported from across the globe during recent past. Sometimes this type of outbreak even continues the whole summer season in specific parts of the world.

The governments of several countries keep launching specific targeted programs to control such dangerous outbreaks. Among the governments of developed countries one of the widely applied programs includes releasing of sterile male Mediterranean fruit flies in to the environment.

The process of releasing male sterile fruit flies involves keeping the sterile male pupae until they grow up in to adults. These grown up male adult sterile fruit flies are then kept in buckets a vehicle carries all such buckets across the affected outbreak areas. The traverses may include the sub-urban areas as well.

The basic objective of such approach is to outnumber the wild fruit fly males with the sterile male fruit flies. According to the results obtained from specific studies conducted in affected areas there is a significant reduction in the overall population ration of wild fruit flies. This in turn will restrict the female reproducing opportunities and ultimately the number of fertile mating will also be reduced up to great extent.

This approach has been very successful in parts of Australia and the campaigns run were also participated by horticulturists, and people from public. It has been rated as one of the best preventive measures that can be implemented easily and more effectively.

Home gardeners therefore must be more vigilant against the dangerous effects of fruit flies. They must learn about the fruit and vegetable quarantine restrictions of their local government.

4 Techniques for Applying Fertilizer in Your garden or Lawn

2008-09-03T22:05:00.001-07:00

Applying fertilizer in your garden or lawn should be based on the most suitable technique. There are several such techniques available. I would prefer to share only four most common techniques that you must know.
Broadcasting
Broadcasting is not just limited to the radio. It applies to the gardening as well. Spreading of fertilizer over the growing area in your garden or lawn with a pre-determined rate is the first stage of broadcasting. This controlled spread is then left open so that the fertilizer filters in to the soil slowly .You can apply a tiller or a spade as well if required.
Fertilizer Banding
Fertilizers are applied in narrow bands. These are basically furrows. Fertilizers must be applied 2.5-inches from garden seeds, and 1.5-inches deeper than the seeds or plants. Applying fertilizer band quite closer to the seeds or plants would certainly result in to an increased risk of burning the root system.
Plants that are generally spaced widely, like tomatoes, the fertilizer band may be even 6-inches long for each plant. You may also consider encircling-band around the plant as well. In any case the fertilizer band must be at least 4-inches away from the plant.
Fertilizer banding is one of the best methods of supplementing phosphorus (P) directly to the plant and it helps in developing the first root. Concentration of phosphorus in bands is easily soaked by plants compared to the broadcasting.
Side-Dressing
This method is best for dry fertilizers specifically. Once the plants start growing and comes up firmly the fertilizer is spread in scattered manner on its both sides. There should be rows on both sides nearly 7-inches away from the plant. The fertilizer applied in this way should be raked well in the soil and water completely.
Foliar Feeding
It is the direct feeding of nutrients to the foliage. This one is the best way to facilitate maximum absorption of fertilizers. Gardeners use this method quite frequently. Subsequent to the application the absorption begins instantly. With almost complete absorption of nutrients the process gets over in a day or two.
Foliar feeding is one of most suitable methods for cold climate soils. In such a climatic condition dry fertilizer application techniques will never work efficiently as the rate of absorption is too slow. Foliar feeding is almost a critical care technique for plants.

Summer Gardening

2008-08-16T04:49:00.000-07:00
Summer time during the month of June is good for new plantings. Earlier perennials used to be marketed either bare-root or field-dug but now use of plastic and other containers has made it easy as the new plants get acclimatized to the new surroundings and environment.When gardening in the month of June you must ensure that, it is well treated with humus and other organic matter. Moisture retention becomes extremely important during these hot days. If the beds are new and raised you must ensure that it has at least 4-inches organic matter layer in a soil profile of 12-inches.For optimum root-growth and good drainage it is extremely important.
Proper watering is one of the key factors for perennials in the month of June. Instead of several repeated shallow watering, you may go for one deep watering every week. It is comparatively more beneficial for the plants. You would save your energy as well.

You should never forget mulching after the plantings. Proper mulching would help retain moisture and retard weed growth. You may also use shredded hardwood, pine bark, and compost after planting. However, mulching should not be applied for more than two inches and it should be kept away from the crown of the plant in order to avoid rot.

Summer gardening and specifically gardening in the month of June should better be a combination gardening. Plants in combination will certainly give a unique look to your garden. If you are looking for a long flowering period then Russian Sage (Perovskia Atriplicifolia), Rudbeckia Goldstrum (Gloriosa Daisy), and Autumn Joy Sedum (Sedum Herbstfreude) will be a nice combination. Similarly, plants in combination like Jupiter’s Beard (Dusty Red Centranthus Ruber), Lance leaf Coreopsis (early sunrise Coreopsis Lanceolata), and Perennial Saliva (Saliva Mainacht) would enhance the beauty of your garden.

During the whole summer time, you must be looking for new perennials in garden stores, nurseries, and local botanical gardens. You may also join a garden tour if it is nearby your area. This tour will help you lot study perennials and garden designing with perennials.
Until the end of June, you have sufficient time to cut late bloomers to half in order to control their height. Doing this would help you avoid staking also. With this height treatment, you can easily control the plant’s growth and they will bloom at lower height. Flower will also come a little later than normal on such plants. Some of the common plants that respond well with this treatment include New England Aster(Aster Novae-Angliae),Silver King(Artemisia),Boltonia(Boltonia Asteroids),Joe-Pye Weed(Eupatorium Maculatum) , Rudbeckia Nitida’Herbstsonne’ and Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’

Garden design with Herbs

2008-05-14T20:21:00.000-07:00

The herb garden adjacent to the museum building at Colonial Pemaquid is designed to show plants which 17th century settlers would have used for medicinal and culinary purposes. Because creating a sustainable life in a frontier outpost was a difficult and demanding task, little time, energy, or space was available for growing merely decorative flowers. Herbs, however, were important, since the household could use blossoms, stems, and roots for promotion of health and healing, for cooking, and for fragrance.

Plants growing in the Pemaquid garden, depending on seasonal conditions and availability, include Bee Balm, Betony (Lamb's Ear), Celandine (Herb Robert), Chamomile, Chives, Clove Pink, Crane's Bill, Day Lily, Dill, Evening Primrose, Feverfew, Johnny Jump Up, Lady's Mantle, Lavender, Lemon Balm, Mint, Parsley, Sage, Savory , Tansy, Tarragon, Thyme, and Yarrow.

The herb garden was originally planted in 1990 next to the Fort House as the first educational project of the Friends of Colonial Pemaquid. It is maintained by FOCP volunteers.

More Natives: Shahul's yard

2008-05-08T23:42:00.000-07:00
Over the weekend I noticed the ditch near the road had turned blue. I don't know how I missed these last year because the entire roadside is covered with them.

A few minutes with the wildflower books told me that they're Salvia lyrata, maybe a bit weedy (but native!) and hummingbirds will sip from them. And while I was sitting on the deck looking this up, a hummingbird came by to investigate some arugula that had started to flower but soon left in search of something better. Wait, wait, I do have something better! So I dug up a few Salvia plants from the ditch and moved them to the edge of the woods - one group where I can see them from the deck and one group in front of the house.

I thought the Salvia might look good next to this - another thing I missed last year - Fringe Tree or Chionanthus virginicus.

I feel sure that it didn't bloom last year and that's how I overlooked it, because it's right at the edge of the woods very close to the house. It's only about 3 feet tall now, but through my Gardeners' Glasses I visualize it as 15 feet tall and covered in white fringe.

Here's another curiosity at the edge of the woods - fuzzy oak galls. They look like some craft project from the 1960s involving spray paint - mostly white but just tinged with pink or red.

If anybody knows what they are, please tell me. A few Google searches didn't give me an answer, but I can tell you that the first hit for "fuzzy oak gall" is this post from Ki last fall. Not the same thing, however.

I hope to keep exploring the woodland over the summer and not ignore it when I get busy with the kitchen garden (like I did last year). Purely by chance yesterday, I found some foliage that looks very like orchid foliage. No photo yet, but I have high hopes.

Native plants

2008-05-08T23:32:00.001-07:00

As much as I get on my soapbox about killing invasive plants and going native, there's been actually very little progress in practicing what I preach. I planted a native fern and shrub last fall, and I'm pleased the fern is coming back and the shrub is still alive.

Another pet project was hacking back all the honeysuckle on one section of fence, trying to make room for a few strands of Carolina jessamine that found their way there. Well, the vines have gone crazy and I have a great display of flowers right now. And they smell wonderful!

Progress!

2008-05-08T23:32:00.000-07:00
Last season our hatred of the Nandina took hold and I hacked one up with pruners. Then my husband, with the typical male tendency for escilation, plowed down the rest with a chainsaw. Then we realized that bushes have these things called roots, and they were stuck in the ground pretty good.

We finally hired two hard-working teenagers from up the road to do the dirty work. They did a great job. Now I am actually ready to dig in! Just need to add soil and seeds!

AeroGarden Review

2008-05-08T23:28:00.000-07:00

My wife got me an AeroGarden for Christmas. I had seen these before, and even was offered a gig consulting for the company with their Internet marketing, but overall held off because of our cats, and their penchant for eating anything I try to grow indoors.

My wife though was, apparently, willing to sacrifice for me a spot in our dining room the cats cannot reach and so she bought me one, with the included herb packet.

Other than gardening, my second most active hobby is cooking, and I do like using fresh herbs when I can, so this makes the product attractive to me. I get fresh herbs in winter. Anyone who has ever bought fresh herbs at the grocery store knows how expensive they can be.

Setup was fairly easy, and as an experienced gardener, altogether unconfusing. However a gardening newbie might not fully understand how aeroponics works and not find it all as intuitive as I did.

I received my first disappointment shortly after setting it up though. I always assumed you could grow anything you have seeds for with this system, but they instead seem to just use proprietary little seed pods, which aren’t of course as cheap as seeds from other sources. A little bit of a razor blade business model maybe?

So I had the herbal seed packet, which included two types of basil, parsley, mint, dill, chives, and cilantro. I set the machine up and started it going and waited. After two weeks everything was growing except the cilantro, after 3 weeks still, no cilantro. So I was quite happy because I think cilantro is nasty. I tucked some flat leaf parsley seeds I had in the cilantro pod and they are now growing. This makes me hope that maybe I will figure out a way to reuse the pods (the problem is, they will be full of the roots from the previous growth).

Since that time the basil has grown really well, but the other plants notsomuch, partially because the basil may be crowding them out. It wasn’t my choice though, there was an actual diagram included with the seeds to prevent crowding, apparently though, it just doesn’t work.

I’ve already used and harvested the basil a few times, but I don’t know when, if ever, I’ll harvest the others. They just haven’t grown enough yet.

The grow lights I find a little disconcerting. They appear to be normal fluorescent grow lights, and yet they give off way more heat than normal fluorescent grow lights I’ve seen before. Additionally they do not lock into their sockets, at all, and so every once in awhile I have to push them back into the sockets they have come loose from.

I also have run into the problem that happens to all who grow indoors, weak stems and drooping plants. Any gardener will tell you that plants develop strong stems in response to wind and other disturbances like rain. Plants grown indoors do not have this and so often end up weak and unable to support their own weight. I read a review where someone had setup a fan across from her AeroGarden on a timer to simulate a daily breeze, quite frankly I don’t want to go to so much effort.

Overally I have a mediocre opinion of this product. Okay, for herbs and maybe salad greens, it could be useful. But I don’t see it really being able to grow good veggies like peppers as the marketing material says it could, I don’t see the stems being able to support the weight. Additionally I dislike that you’re dependent on them for seed pods, and the light socket seems poorly made.

I don’t mind having it certainly, but I’m unsure if I would have ever bought it for myself.

Naturalizing Crocus in the Lawn

2008-05-08T23:14:00.000-07:00

Finally Flowers. Michigan had an abysmally cold February and March and all the bulbs and other plants were delayed, I heard that even one state to the South things were on schedule, but up here this is the latest start I remember in recent time.
But finally, things are waking up, and up first of course, are crocuses. So I get to see the results of the in-lawn plantings I did last fall.

Planting crocus in your lawn is a great way to plant more flowers without having to make more garden beds. The bulbs sit below your sod, the crocus foliage looks like grass, and by the time you need to mow, the flowers are done and it doesn’t hurt them.

You can naturalize your entire lawn, something I’d highly recommend if you’re putting in new sod or seeding for the first time after construction. You may need to shop around to find a distributor willing to sell you thousands of bulbs in bulk for relatively little cash but I think it’d be worth it. You would have, every Spring, a carpet of blossoms where your lawn should be. People will stop to take pictures, it would be beautiful.

For those of us with established lawns though, such a thing is possible, just much much much more work as we have to remove and then replace the sod.

What I did was just two small areas totaling probably 10 square feet together. I used an edging spade to cut the grass into squares of about 12 inches and then used a flat shovel to scoop them up in one piece. I then laid the crocus bulbs (technically corms) down on the exposed dirt, replaced the sod, and tamped down. It was a good deal of work, my sod was compacted and tough to dig, but I’m glad I did it. You’ll want to plant densely for a more powerful affect, so err on the side of too many bulbs rather than too few.

You will notice in the picture some dying grass, that is to be expected, the edges where you cut the sod will brown, but that should respond and fill in within a month or two in the Spring and of course be gone entirely in future years.

Probably when I buy a new house or otherwise have the opportunity to plant BEFORE sod is laid or seed is sown, I will plant thousands of crocus bulbs for huge swaths of color. For now though, I’ll enjoy what I’ve got.